Three Tomatoes Catering and Denver Public Schools teamed up to educate students about career opportunities in the food and beverage industry. Trying their skills with the chef knife, deep fryer, and in the bakery, students walked away with an impression of the detail-oriented commercial kitchen and the job opportunities with a full-service custom caterer. Three Tomatoes Catering's philanthropic and mission includes suggested volunteer hours for management staff that benefit various educational organizations like DPS. Three Tomatoes Catering's Executive Chef, Joseph Beggs helped plan the fun day for DPS students.
DENVER -- As the Mile High City gears up to host a Democratic bash for 50,000, organizers are discovering the perils of trying to stage a political spectacle that's also politically correct.
Consider the fanny packs.
The host committee for the Democratic National Convention wanted 15,000 fanny packs for volunteers. But they had to be made of organic cotton. By unionized labor. In the USA.
Official merchandiser Bob DeMasse scoured the country. His weary conclusion: "That just doesn't exist."
Ditto for the baseball caps. "We have a union cap or an organic cap," Mr. DeMasse says. "But we don't have a union-organic offering."
Much of the hand-wringing can be blamed on Denver's Democratic mayor, John Hickenlooper, who challenged his party and his city to "make this the greenest convention in the history of the planet."
Convention organizers hired the first-ever Director of Greening, longtime environmental activist Andrea Robinson. Her response to the mayor's challenge: "That terrifies me!"
After all, the last time Democrats met in Denver -- to nominate William Jennings Bryan in 1908 -- they dispatched horse-drawn wagons to bring snow from the Rocky Mountains to cool the meeting hall. Ms. Robinson suspected modern-day delegates would prefer air conditioning. So she quickly modified the mayor's goal: She'd supervise "the most sustainable political convention in modern American history."
Now, she must pull it off.
To test whether celebratory balloons advertised as biodegradable actually will decompose, Ms. Robinson buried samples in a steaming compost heap. She hired an Official Carbon Adviser, who will measure the greenhouse-gas emissions of every placard, every plane trip, every appetizer prepared and every coffee cup tossed. The Democrats hope to pay penance for those emissions by investing in renewable energy projects.
Perhaps Ms. Robinson's most audacious goal is to reuse, recycle or compost at least 85% of all waste generated during the convention.
The Trash Brigade
To police the four-day event Aug. 25-28, she's assembling (via paperless online signup) a trash brigade. Decked out in green shirts, 900 volunteers will hover at waste-disposal stations to make sure delegates put each scrap of trash in the proper bin. Lest a fork slip into the wrong container unnoticed, volunteers will paw through every bag before it is hauled away.
![[Andrea Robinson]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_sun8D83zmiLo82sS6ZZ5IYV-llQqo1t7LBDhQ5FWeAOu9ftTWqL9u15e9Km3nrnWSoxQJlOKM5N3Xrvbrg3AcyndM0sNq5RlDI2Y9JiTZjYd3exA3Q9gaeg8Aykq1R4jZrpyhp9VbRXGg-boWU=s0-d)
"That's the only way to make sure it's pure," Ms. Robinson says.
Republicans are pushing conservation, too, as they gear up for their convention in Minneapolis-St. Paul. Like the Democrats, they're cutting down on printing by doing as much work as possible by email; using recycled office furniture; and urging employees to walk or take public transportation to work. The Republicans also encourage vendors to be as environmentally friendly as possible.
But Matt Burns, a spokesman for the Republican convention, looks on with undisguised glee at some of the Democrats' efforts -- such as the "lean 'n' green" catering guidelines.
Among them: No fried food. And, on the theory that nutritious food is more vibrant, each meal should include "at least three of the following colors: red, green, yellow, blue/purple, and white." (Garnishes don't count.) At least 70% of ingredients should be organic or grown locally, to minimize emissions from fuel burned during transportation. "One would think," says Mr. Burns, "that the Democrats in Denver have bigger fish to bake -- they have ruled out frying already -- than mandating color-coordinated pretzel platters."
Democrats say the point is to build habits that will endure long after the convention. To that end, the city has staged "greening workshops" attended by hundreds of caterers, restaurant owners and hotel managers. "It's the new patriotism," Mayor Hickenlooper says.
Laura Hylton, general manager of Biscuits & Berries catering, agrees in principle. But she has been testing her recipes using local ingredients for weeks and still can't get the green peppercorn sauce right when she uses white Colorado wine. The state's high-altitude wine industry took off in the early 1990s and produces some award-winning labels, but Ms. Hylton says diplomatically, "It's a little...lacking. Our wineries out here aren't what you'd see in California or France."
Joanne Katz, who runs the Denver caterer Three Tomatoes, will take one for the green team by removing her fried goat-cheese won tons with chipotle pepper caramel sauce from the menu. But she questions whether some of the guidelines will have the desired earth-saving effects.
Compostable utensils, she says, are often shipped from Asia on fuel-guzzling cargo ships. As for the plates: "Is it better to drive across town to have china delivered to an event and then use hot water to wash it, or is it better to use petroleum-based disposables?" she asks.
The convention's greening gurus say they're doing the best they can with the most current information available.
Coors Conflict
But it's almost inevitable that principles, politics and profit will conflict. To wit: Coors Brewing Co., in Golden, Colo., will donate biofuel made from beer waste to power the convention's fleet of flex-fuel vehicles. A green star for the convention -- but it has rankled die-hard liberals, who boycotted Coors in the 1960s and '70s to protest hiring practices that they said discriminated against blacks, Latinos, women and gays. Heirs to the Coors fortune have long been active in conservative causes and Republican politics.
Convention officials say Coors is a good corporate citizen. And a Coors spokeswoman says the donation was a gesture of civic pride, not politics.
No matter, grumbles Anna Flynn, a longtime union member from Denver who objected to the donation. "Any way you put it, it's still Coors," she says.
Chris Lopez, a spokesman for the host committee, says that securing a diverse group of sponsors is as much about showcasing the regional economy as promoting sustainability. He added that Democrats are nudging sponsors to "think green" by participating in an eco-festival and cutting back on paper fliers stuffed into delegate goody bags.
Watching the greening frenzy from afar, Fred L. Smith Jr., president of the libertarian Washington think tank Competitive Enterprise Institute, suggested the Democrats could really shrink their footprint by staging a virtual-reality convention: "Just have everyone stay at home with their laptops, sitting in their pajamas, interacting through their avatars."
Ms. Robinson, the greening director, says big showy conventions are part of the American political tradition, and thus worth a few emissions here and there. Also, she hates to be a killjoy.
True, she did try (unsuccessfully) to get bottled water banned from the convention hall. But remember those balloons? She checked the compost heap last week -- and found them still intact. She has added more liquid to try to get them to degrade.
And if they don't? "The balloons will be there," she promises.
So will the fanny packs -- made in the USA of undyed, organic fabric. Mr. DeMasse vows to get a union shop to print the logo, but he says the ink will be petroleum based. Unless, that is, he decides to get the logo embroidered -- with biodegradable thread.
Write to Stephanie Simon at stephanie.simon@wsj.com
Fried shrimp on a bed of jasmine rice and a side of mango salad, all served on a styrofoam plate. Bottled water to wash it all down.
These trendy catering treats are unlikely to appear on the menu at parties sponsored by the Denver 2008 Host Committee during the Democratic National Convention this summer.
Fried foods are forbidden at the committee's 22 or so events, as is liquid served in individual plastic containers. Plates must be reusable, like china, recyclable or compostable. The food should be local, organic or both.
And caterers must provide foods in "at least three of the following five colors: red, green, yellow, blue/purple, and white," garnishes not included, according to a Request for Proposals, or RFP, distributed last week.
The shrimp-and-mango ensemble? All it's got is white, brown and orange, so it may not have the nutritional balance that generally comes from a multihued menu.
"Blue could be a challenge," joked Ed Janos, owner of Cook's Fresh Market in Denver. "All I can think of are blueberries."
The national nominating convention Aug. 25-28 will bring about 50,000 people to Denver, and many will scarf loads of chow served at catered parties.
The prospect of that business windfall has tantalized caterers since Denver was named host city for the convention more than a year ago.
Caterers praise the committee and the city for their green ambitions, but some say they're baffled by parts of the RFP.
"I think it's a great idea for our community and our environment. The question is, how practical is it?" asks Nick Agro, the owner of Whirled Peas Catering in Commerce City. "We all want to source locally, but we're in Colorado. The growing season is short. It's dry here. And I question the feasibility of that."
Agro's biggest worry is price. Using organic and local products hikes the costs.
"There is going to be sticker shock when those bids start coming in," he says. "I'll cook anything, but I've had clients who have approached me about all-organic menus, and then they see the organic stuff pretty much doubles your price."
The document, which applies only to the host committee's parties, came after months of work that involved discussions with caterers and event planners along the Front Range, says Parry Burnap, Denver's "greening" director.
Burnap is attached to the host committee full time for now; the committee works closely with the city but is a separate, nonprofit entity.
Thousands of other parties hosted by corporations, lobbying groups, individuals, nonprofits and more will happen in Denver during the convention, Burnap says. None of them is subject to the committee's green agenda.
The committee's effort to host eco-friendly events, she says, hinges on its determination not just to put on a smart convention but to transform Denver into a top-shelf green city.
"We are hoping that everything we are doing for greening (the convention) has some legacy value," she says.
The RFP, for example, will likely live on after the convention in a brochure the city will distribute widely to help guide local businesses interested in improving their green practices.
Burnap says taking the organic and local route may be more costly, but the committee thinks caterers will find ways to comply and still make a profit.
"It takes some creativity because some of these things are more expensive," she says. "But we're at the front end of a market shift."
Joanne Katz, owner of Three Tomatoes Catering in Denver, cheers the committee's environmental aspirations and is eager to get involved with the convention, but she wonders if some of the choices the committee is making are really green.
Compostable products, such as forks and knives made from corn starch, are often imported from Asia, delivered to the U.S. in fuel-consuming ships. But some U.S. products are made from recyclable pressed paper. Which decision is more environmentally sound?
"Customers are beginning to demand these things, and we don't have all of the information," she says. "And we are doing the best we can, one project at a time."
Burnap acknowledged that figuring out what is most green can be difficult.
"Maybe in 20 years, there will be better analysis for us to make better choices," she says. "One we are talking about now is, is it better to compost or to recycle? If you are using a cup for a beverage, is it better to be (plastic) and back in the materials stream, or compostable, biodegradable waste and go into the waste stream or compost? There are no definitive answers."
Composting for the convention hasn't been entirely figured out yet, she says.
Colorado has commercial composting companies, such as A1 Organics in Eaton, but the link between the composters and caterers hasn't been made.
The committee is working with other groups to develop a carbon-footprint "calculator" that will measure the environmental impact of each event and suggest an "offset" — a fee — that will go toward a fund helping to match carbon losses with carbon gains.
"That's a fun one," Burnap says. "If these event planners will calculate and offset, it will start to get the money flowing into the Colorado Carbon Fund, a fund that will reinvest in renewable energy here in Colorado."
Douglas Brown: 303-954-1395 or djbrown@denverpost.com
| Denver Business Journal - February 18, 2008 http://denver.bizjournals.com/denver/stories/2008/02/18/focus3.html |
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Caterers are used to accommodating special menu requests, such as preparing vegetarian meals and leaving peanuts off the plate. But when one conference requested all gluten-free meals, it took catering to a new level.
"It was logistically challenging," said John Baxter, director of catering and convention services at the Hyatt Regency Tech Center. "The whole hotel had to step up. We had pre-conference meetings with the staff to educate them about gluten so everyone was aware of how to handle it."
The kitchen set up special prep areas to keep wheat products separate from the gluten-free foods, including using separate toasters. The hotel restaurants also featured gluten-free menu items.
Though this conference presented a unique challenge, Baxter said he's noticed more special dietary requests now than in the past. There were five or six special meal requests for a recent lunch function at the hotel.
Baxter said setting the conference table these days means following the current trend toward healthier eating.
"The trend is causing us to rethink scrambled eggs and bacon for breakfast. There are more requests for foods with higher fiber and lower fat so people don't fall asleep in meetings," he said. "There is a lot less sugar, too."
Deirdre Wildman, director of sales and marketing for Three Tomatoes Catering in Denver, said people no longer are reluctant to mention their special dietary needs. In addition to requests for vegetarian and vegan meals, she receives requests for non-dairy and gluten-free menus, too.
Wildman makes sure there are enough options on the buffet table so that everyone can find something to enjoy. It's not unusual for some events to have four or five entrée choices.
"Caterers are really having to bend over backwards to meet their client requests," she said. "The key is to think about every ingredient that goes into a food item. Since we make everything here from scratch, we know all the ingredients and often list the ingredients on cards placed near the food."
Wildman said there are only a few definite don'ts when it comes to serving large groups. "We stay away from high-fat and oily foods that take a long time to digest." Instead, she prefers to serve whole grains, lean proteins and light sauces.
"For breakfast we might serve eggs, but with loads of fruit," she said. "It's a complex carbohydrate, and it gives an energy boost that's much better than a simple sugar."
The most important consideration for Lindsay Rauch, president of Event Design Group in Boulder, is to determine the goals and objectives of each event and what guests will gain from their experience.
"If you're able to determine and respect the group's objectives, things fall into place more comfortably," she said.
As a meeting planner, one of Rauch's definite do's is to leave the menu design to the caterer. "We always do a food tasting with the client so they have input into the menu," she said.
For large groups, Rauch avoids certain menu items, such as strong fishes, like shark, or messy foods, like long noodles. For large groups, she prefers a knifeless menu for a buffet or a strolling station menu.
Of the current food trends, Rauch said there's a definite interest in organic foods and hormone-free beef.
If fish is served, she's asked about the country of origin or if it's been farm-raised.
Rauch often plans dessert buffets and station parties to encourage guests to meet and mingle. "People also love fresh cooking onsite, with a chef behind the table creating custom-made dishes just for them."
Nicole Marsh is president and CEO of The Arrangers in Denver. The trends she's seeing reflect requests for lighter fare and foods served on smaller plates or as individual portions at a buffet station.
"We're serving desserts in shot glasses or on a skewer, instead of a whole piece of pie or cake," she said. "We're also serving individual portions on a spoon or a chip. That allows the chef's creativity to shine and makes the event more playful."
As an experienced meeting planner, Marsh asks about special requests in advance of a meeting and has a select number of special meals prepared. To prevent severe food allergy reactions to nuts, shellfish or gluten, every food item on the buffet is either labeled or the menu is printed in the program.
Though most groups are requesting healthier fare, Marsh still sees attendees splurge and try things they wouldn't normally eat.
"They say they can always go back to dieting when they get home," she said.
Marsh said pop still is served from the beverage cart, but she's getting more requests for specialty drinks such as Red Bull, Gatorade and Propel Fitness Water.
Another growing trend for the catering industry is the need to become "green." Setting the snack table now means opting for water stations instead of individual bottled water, serving cookies family style, using compostible cups and plates, and setting up recycling containers at every event.
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Carmelo Anthony is a high-performance athlete who needs more protein and healthy carbohydrates than the average person to stay on top of his game, but aspects of his eating plan would be good for the rest of us, says Beth Danowsky, registered dietitian at Forza Fitness and Performance Club, 1849 Curtis St.
It all comes down to choices, she says.
People trying to lose weight should eat more fresh and frozen vegetables and high-quality proteins at every meal and snack. Similarly, they should decrease the amount of carbohydrates they get from breads, pastas, pastries and other baked goods.
And don't think you have to eliminate all fats, she says. "Healthy fats from things like avocados, nuts, flaxseed and olive oil are actually very good for a person and should be consumed daily."
She also recommends eliminating trans fats, hydrogenated oils and high-fructose corn syrup. "You wouldn't put a harmful substance like molasses into your gas tank, so why would you put things like that into your body?" Danowsky says. "It's not the most efficient fuel and will eventually cause your 'engine' to shut down," from such ailments as heart disease and diabetes.
Forza is building a kitchen and will soon be offering meals to clients. In the meantime, it is having Three Tomatoes catering make breakfast and lunch items that patrons can pick up after a workout. Tofu quiche and breakfast burritos made from egg whites, vegetable salads and wraps are among the items that provide the 10 grams of high-quality protein the typical adult needs within 30-45 minutes after an intense workout.
"The ingredients in the foods are functional — nothing has been added for flavor's sake," Danowsky says. "We've tried our best to balance the carbohydrate-to- protein ratio so the body maximally absorbs the energy from the food for optimal recovery."
